Okunoshima, also known as “Rabbit Island”, may be the cutest place on Earth. I first learned of it through a YouTube video where a Japanese woman was playfully chased by a flock of tiny bunnies. Such an idyllic place could only exist in Japan, the land of the cute.
Living and traveling throughout the country, I couldn’t help but notice the overwhelming cuteness. I regularly spot Hello Kitty backpacks, pastries carefully shaped like baby animation characters, and perfectly groomed toy poodles obediently following their equally fashionable owners.
In a time of collapsing economies, ethnic clashes, and environmental turmoil, it is comforting to take a step back and see the world this way. It seems simplistic and childish, but I don’t think there is anything wrong with that.
Ironically, the tiny semi-tropical island once produced weapons of mass destruction that caused gruesome deaths and destruction. These factories and warehouses are now populated with thousands of tame, friendly rabbits.
On a recent trip through southern Japan, I decided to experience Rabbit Island for myself. The thousands of bunnies, blue waters, and sandy beaches make Okunoshima a peaceful and unique getaway.
Located within the Inland Sea of Japan and off the coast of Hiroshima, Okunoshima is easily accessed by ferry. Once there, you immediately see why it’s called Rabbit Island. Teams of big-eyed cottontails eagerly hop over for treats. With no fear of humans or natural predators, the bunnies are more than happy to jump in your lap, snack from your hand, or crawl on top of you.
The trip left me smiling and my clothes smelling like bunnies. It was a one-of-a-kind fairytale experience.
Dark History
In 1925 the Imperial Japanese Army initiated a secret program to develop chemical weapons and chose the island because of it’s isolation.
Although Japan had signed the 1925 Geneva Protocol banning the use of chemical warfare, the development and storage of chemical weapons was allowed by the treaty. The Imperial Japanese Army went to great lengths to assure the secrecy of the facilities even going so far as to remove records of the island from some maps.
After the end of World War II documents concerning the plant were burned and people were told to remain silent about the project. The Allied Occupation Forces disposed of the gas either by burning it, dumping it off the coast, or burying around the island, where containers still remain until this day.
The island remained abandoned for decades. As the former military facilities fell into ruin, the rabbit population exploded. With no predators the bunnies grew up without fear of humans and the popularity of the island as a tourist destination expanded.
Where Did the Rabbits Come From?
No one seems to know where the rabbits came from, but there are some popular theories:
The most popular theory is that the rabbits used as test subjects for the chemical weapons facilities escaped after the war and populated the island.
However, this rumor seems unlikely as records state that the rabbits were destroyed along the gas in 1945.
Another theory is that a school teacher in 1971 brought six rabbits for school children to play with. The thousands rabbits that inhabit the island are their descendants.
Finally, the rabbits were intentionally set loose on the island after World War II as a way to develop it as a tourist destination.
Whatever the real cause, the rabbits have continued to multiply and have become an international draw for animals lovers and tourists alike.
What To Do
In a stark contrast to the munitions and poison gas that were formerly manufactured here, Okunoshima is tranquil and idyllic with easy hiking trails, white sand beaches, historical buildings, hotel and of course cute bunnies.
Other Activities:
- The Beach — Rabbit Island has several nice beaches and is great for taking a swim during the warm months of summer and early autumn
- Poison Gas Museum — One of Japan’s Peace Museums and some examples of the weapons themselves, equipment used by the factory, workers’ diaries, and historical photos. There are also some gruesome photos of more recent victims of poison gas. (Closed Tuesdays. Open 9am-5pm; Entry ¥100)
- Onsen — The hotel has a Japanese style hot spring that is available for daily use. Great for washing off any dirt or bunny urine.
Where To Stay
If you wish to stay on the island there are two options:
- Kyukamura Hotel — Japanese style rooms located in the heart of the island. Facilities include a Japanese onsen, tennis courts, and pool (only open during the summer), and a karaoke room. Reservations often include breakfast and dinner. Check rates and availability HERE
- Camping — There are full service campsites available on the island. Located close to the beach and near the visitors center you can be surrounded by your new bunny friends.
Getting There
First, the train
Rabbit Island is a great day trip if you are staying in Hiroshima and takes approximately 2 hours from Hiroshima station. This is the popular plan for those with a Japan Rail Pass and leaves in the morning at 9:00am and returns to Hiroshima by 6:00pm. Arrive at Tadanoumi Station and be sure to stop at the convenience store next door to buy drinks and snacks, as options are limited on island.
Second, the ferry
The twelve-minute ferry to Rabbit Island leaves from Tadanoumi Port, a short, ten-minute walk from Tadanoumi Station.
When you arrive at the port, tickets can be purchased from the vending machine or ticket counter. The round trip ferry costs ¥620. You can also purchase bunny food for ¥100 at the port if you forgot to bring any. The hotel on the island also sells rabbit pellets.
The free bus to the public hotel will be waiting at the pier when you arrive. In case that you want to walk, it is a-15 minute walk to the hotel in a clockwise manner, or a 40-minute walk by a counterclockwise direction.
Ferry Time Table
Bound for Okunoshima: 7:30, 8:30, 9:30, 10:30, 12:30, 14:30, 15:30, 16:30, 17:30, 19:05
Bound for Tadanoumi port: 9:13, 10:13, 12:13, 14:13, 15:13, 16:13
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