To be clear, two days in Tokyo is not nearly long enough to explore this megacity’s natural and manmade beauty. But if that’s all you’ve got, here’s where you should eat, sleep and shop. Remember to have plenty of cash on hand as it is the only payment form accepted at many businesses in Japan. And be conscious about how loudly you communicate. Though this city is crowded, it’s also surprisingly quiet given the number of inhabitants and you’ll almost never hear anyone speak loudly into a phone, or to a companion on a train or in the street.
EAT
Izakayas (casual Japanese gastropubs) rarely have English menus and you’ll find their walls covered with handwritten specials and sakes that are difficult to decipher if you don’t read the language. To make it easier, I memorize a few izakaya staples and ask for these dishes using their Japanese names — yakitori, karaage, agedashi tofu.
Should you find yourself at a soba spot, opt for ‘kamo-nanban’ (duck soba with leeks). I rarely find this version of the buckwheat noodle soup outside Japan and it is ridiculously satisfying! You can’t go wrong with soba of any sort — tenzaru (tempura with chilled noodles), kitsune (noodles in hot broth topped with thin sheets of deep fried tofu) — at Kyorakutei or Itasoba Kaoriya.
Japanese diners traditionally like to eat oil-rich unagi in the sweltering summer months. For a traditional experience, try the charcoal grilled unagi at Miharu. Afterward, get a huge multicolored frozen treat after at Daily Chiko inside nearby Nakano Broadway.
Sushi is usually reserved for special occasions in Japan and good sushi is incredibly expensive in Tokyo. (One reason I often stick to noodles!) If you’re up for a splurge Sushi Otaninosushi is worth it. Make sure not to wear any scent — cologne, perfume, strongly scented lotions — when you go to a sushi restaurant as strong fragrances can interfere with the subtle flavors of the fish. Not adhering to the scent free rule could get you kicked out.
SLEEP
I have a voracious appetite for boutique hotels but there aren’t many in Tokyo. The closest thing I’ve found is the Shibuya Granbell Hotel. (Ace Hotel and citizenM: If Tokyo isn’t on your roadmap, it should be!).
Hotels here are difficult to book online if you don’t read Japanese, but sites like hotels.com make it easier and have good coverage in Tokyo. Make sure to request a non-smoking room (it’s not a given here) if you don’t like smoke.
SHOP
I’m partial to edible souvenirs, many of which I find in konbinis (convenience stores like 7–11, Lawson and Family Mart). From sakura (cherry blossom) flavored Kit Kats and kinako (roasted soybean flour) chocolates to salted lemon sweets of all shapes, what’s ordinary in Japan is sure to delight folks back at home. For something fancier, visit a depachika (department store basement food hall) for fresh mochi, cakes and cookies in gorgeous gift boxes. Or try the Aoyama Farmers’ Market on Saturday or Sunday. With loads of farmers and artisans who will gladly let you samples their wares, you can find exceptional tea, honey, coffee and chocolate here.
Should you want to carry home the scent of Tokyo, bring back incense from Shoyeido. For design inspired souvenirs, check out Spiral Market or La Kagu. And if you want to wear home your memories try United Arrows. You’ll like this store if you dig Anthropologie and J. Crew; it’s a little bit of both with a decidedly Japanese vibe that leans more preppy than bohemian.
Many things fascinate me about Japan, one is the fastidiousness with which things are packaged. The wrapping encasing an item is often at least as exciting as what’s inside. If your purchase is a gift, be sure to let the person ringing you up know that. They’ll treat it with a preciousness typically reserved for swaddling small babies. (And even if it’s only for you, it’ll still be wrapped with extreme care.)
PRO TIPS
Tokyo is super walkable so bring comfortable shoes, hoof it as much as possible and expect to get lost.When you do get lost, take a coffee break. Or try a kissaten (old school Japanese coffee shop).Carry a washcloth. Bathrooms in Tokyo (even in train stations) are spotlessly clean but paper towels and hand dryers are less common. If you want to go local, buy a tenugui (traditional Japanese hand towel) for this purpose.If you take a taxi, never attempt to open or close the door (the driver controls the door from up front).