Last week I visited Nagoya for the first time! Nagoya is the largest city in my area, and one of the largest in Japan. It takes about an hour on the train to get there, or even faster if you are willing to pay more for your ticket. For my first trip, I decided to visit Nagoya Castle, the shopping district Osu, and To-ganji Temple, in which rests the Great Buddha of Nagoya.
The subway system in Nagoya is relatively easy to use. The machines to buy tickets were confusing, but when I found a modern one, it had an English language setting. Tickets for the subway system are very cheap, and it’s worth buying a day ticket!
Nagoya Castle
Nagoya Castle is only a few subway stops from Nagoya’s central station, making it easy to find with plenty of signs in English. The site itself is huge, and the castle is surrounded by stalls selling food and souvenirs. There’s also sheltered places to eat lunch which was great for me and my packed lunch. It’s only 500 yen for adult entry so it’s well worth the money for the sights inside.
Just before you enter the main castle, there is a newly restored building called Hommaru Palace. It was the home of the lord of the province, and the original was built in 1615.
The entire building has been restored to its original state after being destroyed in World War II, so going inside means a lot of strict rules. You must take off your shoes, store any large personal items, and flash photography is forbidden. Even the use of ball-point pens is prohibited. There are staff scattered throughout the building watching every nook and cranny, but it is understandable when looking at the care that has gone in to restoring this building. The building will be officially completed in 2018.
The main building consists of seven floors, 5 of which are open to the public holding relics from its past. The top floor also serves as an observation room and gift shop. Built between 1610 and 1612, the castle was still being used as a palace for the emperor up until 1945 when it was also destroyed in WWII bombing. As the symbol of Nagoya, it was rebuilt in 1959.
There are lots of interesting sights inside, including an insect exhibition, paintings depicting life in the 1600s, samurai armor and swords and even a norimono; a kind of royal carriage or sedan chair used to transport lords, lifted and carried by people.
The famous golden dolphins are also thematically dispersed around the building as a symbol of money and power, and a mascot thought to prevent fire.
I was also lucky enough to encounter a very kind older gentleman dressed in traditional clothing who was visiting the castle. I felt bad for disturbing him while he waited for the elevator.
Osu Shopping District
Osu was harder to find from the subway station but incredible once I stumbled upon it. Osu shopping district is a cross-section of streets that are filled with shops and markets that spill onto the main strip. It was busy and bustling and gave me the chance to find some very unusual shops. My favourite of which was Alice on Wednesday.
Alice on Wednesday is a Alice in Wonderland themed shop — in every possible way. There was a queue to get inside and even the door to the shop was created with Alice in mind; you have to crouch to get through. Inside was a tightly packed shop full of trinkets and gifts with an Alice theme. Another half was dedicated to Wonderland themed snacks and drinks.
It is definitely worth the visit for something so individual.
At the end of the main strip on Osu, a temple slowly materializes through the haze of people and bright shop fronts.
This is a beautiful area with fantastic historical buildings, but be warned it’s also the home of a lot of pigeons. Osu Temple is part of the Shingon denomination of Buddhism, and was relocated from its original home in Nagaoka (much further north) to Osu in 1612 after Nagoya castle was built. It is dedicated to Kannon, the deity of mercy.
To-ganji Temple
To-ganji Temple is much further away from the centre of Nagoya, and involves a ten minute walk from the nearest subway station. This does however give it a very peaceful and tranquil vibe, which is exactly what you want from a temple. The grounds are thick with forest (remember the mosquito spray again) and it feels like every corner of the grounds are filled with hidden treasures. The most surprising of which, is a huge green buddha.
While it is a very wild and untamed temple, with a lot of unkempt greenery and no signs (in Japanese or English), I think this adds to the tranquility and beauty of it. It is untouched and feels like another escape from the busy world of Nagoya.
To see my own adventure in film, please watch the video below!