Budget and blowout guide to Copenhagen

The food world is looking to the Danish capital for inspiration.

Its most famous export was once Carlsberg, but now restaurant Noma, where the New Nordic cuisine movement was born, is Copenhagen’s brightest star.

Chef René Redzepi’s ethos is already influencing a new breed of chefs – including Claire Lara, winner of MasterChef: The Professionals 2010, who cooked there with the other finalists. The city is heaving with stylish bars and restaurants.

Lunch
Budget: René Redzepi of Noma always takes visitors to Schønnemanns. This cosy lunchtime institution serves smørrebrød (Danish open sandwiches), beer and snaps. Try marinated herring, £6.95, roast beef, £9.25, or Havfruen (pictured), £17.50 – smoked salmon and smoked halibut with a crayfish tail salad. (restaurantschonnemann.dk)

Holberg no 19 is a laidback café/bar serving great tapas off Nyhavn, the canal district, packed with restaurants and bars. American owner Tom is a mine of information on the city. Tapas plates from £10, chorizo, tomato and provolone sandwich, £6.95. (holbergno19.dk)

Blowout: Chef/owner Christian Puglisi (ex Noma) recently opened relæ in Nørrebro. The four-course lunch, £38.50, might feature pickled mackerel with cauliflower and lemon (pictured), and raspberries, rapeseeds and vinegar. (restaurant-relae.dk)

Dinner
Lunch: Manfreds Take Away is opposite relæ and also owned by Christian Puglisi. It’s not your average takeaway, but an all-day café where you can opt to eat in and have rustic, seasonal dishes such as polenta with Jerusalem artichokes. All mains under £12. (manfreds.dk)

BioM (pictured) in the quiet district of Fredericiagade in Old Copenhagen aims to be completely eco-friendly in terms of ingredient sourcing – everything from the meat to wine is organic. Try scallop with aubergine compote, and veal roast with glazed beetroot and blackcurrant sauce. Two courses from £33. (biom.dk)

Blowout: At Noma, René Redzepi produces inventive dishes from ‘snacks’ of edible flowers to the simple beef tartar and sorrel eaten with your fingers or the ‘Hen and the Egg’ that you cook at the table yourself. Unforgettable. Tasting menus from £129. (noma.dk)

Drink
Lunch: Recommended by Noma chefs as a good place to head for a late beer, The Moose (pictured) is one of a handful of pubs on this street, off the main shopping drag, packed with young Copenhageners knocking back beers until the early hours. Bear in mind that in smaller bars like this, smoking is allowed. (Sværtegade 5)

The bar at Kødbyens Fisskebar in the meatpacking area is a calmer experience and is a good pre or after-dinner drinks venue, as well a smart restaurant in its own right. Good cocktails and wines by the glass from £5.90. (fiskebaren.dk)

Blowout: The city’s cocktail scene is thriving thanks in part to Brits like Gromit Eduardsen of louche Bar 1105. He created The Copenhagen, £12.50, a cocktail featuring local spirit cherry heering. An easy place to lose an evening. (1105.dk)

Hotel
Budget: The Cab Inn has small basic rooms (in the style of ship’s cabins, hence the name) but a great location in Frederiksberg, a short walk from all major sights and the centre of town. Doubles from £72. (cabinn.com)

The stylish and affordable Wakeup Copenhagen (pictured) has more than 500 compact but modern rooms and is walking distance to Tivoli Gardens, Town Hall Square, the pedestrian shopping streets and the waterfront. Doubles from £73. (wakeupcopenhagen.com)

Blowout: Housed within renovated spice warehouses 71 Nyhavn’s rooms offer canal views and an excellent location. There are bars and restaurants on its doorstep and the city centre is just a short walk away. Doubles from £114.50. (71nyhavnhotel.com)

Must do
Budget: KIHOSKH is a quirky grocery store that stocks a huge selection of Danish and international beer. (kihoskh.dk) t Visit during 19-28 August 2011 when Copenhagen Cooking Festival takes over the city. There are foodie activities such as snaps tasting at the smart, celebrity-chef owned Aamanns (pictured), reduced-price menus at leading restaurants, lively street markets and more. (copenhagencooking.com).

For a local’s take on eating out in Copenhagen, see Trine Lai’s detailed and well-photographed blog verygoodfood.dk.

Blowout: A bar hop around the meatpacking district shows off Copenhagen’s nightlife. Try Paté Paté (pictured), a lively wine bar, (patepate.dk), Dolly Parton-themed Jolene (Flaesketorvet 81-85) and ultra-stylish Karriere (karrierebar.com).

The article ‘Budget and blowout guide to Copenhagen’ was published in partnership with BBC Olive magazine.

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Budget and blowout guide to Copenhagen

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