Playing polo in Buenos Aires

Take in a match or saddle up yourself in one of the world’s great cities for the sport.

Everybody knows that Argentina is famous for football, but there is another, less known sport that has a long history here: polo.

The game arrived in the 1800s with British settlers in the Argentine pampas (plains) playing polo in their free time. Argentina has since become internationally renowned in the sport, making it the perfect place to take in a match — or even have a go at playing yourself.

Where to watch
Starting 25 September, the annual Tortugas Country Club Open Polo Championship signals the start of the Argentine polo high season and is an excellent opportunity to see professional players in action. Featuring Argentine polo teams with some of the best handicaps in the world, the tournament ends with a match on 13 October where the winning team receives the prestigious Emilio Anchorena Cup. All matches take place at the club’s polo fields, located just north of Buenos Aires near the suburb of Pilar, and tickets prices range between 60 and 420 Argentinean dollars depending on the game and seating area. Tickets are only available for purchase at the club and can be bought on the day of the match.

This tournament is one of the three most important in Argentina, along with the  Hurlingham tournament in October at The Hurlingham Club in the northwest of the city, and the  Argentine Polo Open Championship, the world’s most prestigious tournament, which takes place from late November through December at the Campo Argentino de Polo in the Palermo neighbourhood. Collectively, these competitions are known as the “Triple Crown”. While teams from all over the world can compete, most players are Argentine.

Polo’s low season runs from February through March, though quality games can still be seen.

Where to play
The Puesto Viejo Estancia, a 250-acre cattle ranch, polo club and boutique hotel, located just under an hour southwest of  Buenos Aires, recently introduced Polo Days, where visitors can spend a full day learning about polo, taking a lesson with a professional instructor and watching a match. Guests are picked up at 10 am by a private car in Buenos Aires and driven to the ranch, where they are given a tour of the property and stables, get an overview of the rules and history of the game, and, after some initial instruction, saddle up a horse and have a go. After a homemade lunch, guests can roam the surrounding countryside on foot or bike and relax around the pool. A second polo lesson is followed by watching the local polo club play, during which guests are talked through the finer details of the game. At 8 pm guests return to Buenos Aires. Polo Days cost $150 per person, and bookings should be made in advance.

Tim Fitzgerald is the Buenos Aires Localite for BBC Travel. He also writes gringoinbuenosaires.com.

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