Kyoto was the city that made me want to return to Japan. It’s over a thousand years old and stands as Japan’s historical imperial capital. The city was taken off the shortlist as a target for the atom bomb during WWII purely because of its beauty and history, and the entire city is now listed as an UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s a city that changes with every step you take and let’s you slip into a world very different from the lights and sounds of Tokyo.
One thing you need to remember in Kyoto is you cannot get anywhere very fast. Being surrounded by mountains on three sides means the only way into the city is in the South, and Kyoto’s limited subways and heavily trafficked roads means you need a lot of patience travelling across its breadth. Make sure to pay careful attention to busy tourist times like the cherry blossom and autumn leaves seasons. It’s not unusual to spend over an hour getting from one side of Kyoto to the other. (Is it too obvious to say don’t go by car? Honestly, you’ll regret it).
My first stop in Kyoto was one of its most famous landmarks, Kinkaku-ji, or the Golden Pavilion. This area of land was bought by a shogun (military chief) in 1397, who transformed the gardens of his estate to represent ‘the Pure Land of Buddha in this world’. Believe it or not, rocks that are scattered around the edge of the pond and its islets were donated by other provincial lords at the time. After the shogun’s death, the building was converted into a temple that has become one of the most popular tourist sites in Japan and a symbol of Kyoto.
For somewhere almost in the mountains, it’s surprising to find so many tourists this far north. While the view of the Golden Pavilion across the lake is busy and noisy with coaches full of tourists, the grounds surrounding the the temple bring you back to a more magical and peaceful time.
Look out for little metal pots sitting beside the path which you can throw coins into for good luck — although I promise it’s harder than it sounds. Just before you leave the grounds there are also little red fortune machines (in English, Chinese and Korean) that offer you a very zen fortune for ¥100.
On the other side of the city just to the East of the Kamo Rivier sits Kiyomizu-dera, another of the most famous temples in Kyoto. It’s harder to get to with few buses and no nearby subway stations but it’s worth the walk. A trek up a steep hill of traditional souvenir shops and restaurants will bring you to one of the best views of Kyoto. Especially at sunset and after nightfall, Kiyomizu-dera gives you a beautiful view of the city and the mountains that frame it. It’s notoriety as one of the most famous temples in Kyoto comes from its trees during the cherry blossom and autumn leaves season, so beware of crowds (but also jaw dropping beauty) during those times.
With many different gardens and buildings to walk around (and an adjoining shrine) expect to spend at least an hour walking around the area. The main buildings were constructed in 1633 and no nails were used in its construction — which is a little daunting considering the deck of the temple sits 13 meters above the ground on stilts.
The deck itself is the inspiration for the Japanese expression equivalent to ‘to take the plunge’ or to ‘jump in head first’, as in the 17th and 18th period, if you jumped off the edge of Kiyomizu-dera’s deck and survived, it is thought that you would be reborn and a wish of yours would be granted. 85% of those who did jump survived but unfortunately (or fortunately) this past time is now banned.
Another of Kiyomizu-dera’s unique features is that its name literally means ‘pure water temple’. At the bottom of the temple grounds the Otowa waterfall is split into three separate streams that are said to bring a person luck in studies, health or love. Make sure to only drink from one though as drinking from two or three will bring you bad luck in all areas.
Both of these temples hold a certain mystery about them from a very different time in Japan, but it’s hard to appreciate such beauty when the crowds are so dense. While I would suggest visiting Kyoto, I think visiting lesser-known temples or visiting off-season is a much more enjoyable experience. If you are planning to go to Kyoto during peak times, just be prepared for some elbow jostling.
Vlog of my trip to Kinkaku-ji and Kiyomizu-dera: