Japan [01] Tokyo

Kevin Yao

March 17 – March 26, 2016

Foreword

I have been under the influence for a long time now. I grew up consuming all sorts of Japanese media, absorbing various aspects of Japanese philosophy and aesthetics that eventually shaped my way of life. For me, Japan has become an almost sacred destination, and nothing short of a perfect trip would do it justice. I have always wanted to go, but I have always hesitated, fearing the dreadful chance of a shattered childhood dream. With the help of a good friend’s prodding, however, I realized that I needed to just go and absorb it all in, just as I had done when I was young. No matter what happens, I just needed to be in the middle of it all, and grow up all over again.

Note: Instead of the day-to-day format I usually write, the following posts will be structured around points of interests.

Tokyo (you are here)KyotoFuji + Himeji + Osaka

Tsukiji Market
Famous for their tuna auctions, the market is slated to move to a different location later this year. Although we did not go early enough to see the tuna auctions, the many restaurants in the market promised fresh fish to eat.




Asakusa
A district located on the fringe of Tokyo. While not as upbeat as other areas, it gave off a very peaceful and homey feel.





Sensoji, Asakusa
Tokyo’s oldest Buddhist temple, well-integrated into the urban sprawl. For us, this was the first of many temples to come.




Irokawa Restaurant, Asakusa
Superb unagi at a hole-in-the-wall. Instead of waiting in line, they invited us to wait in a tatami-padded backroom. The meal was simple and delicious, but definitely on the pricey side.


Shibuya
For the majority of our stay in Tokyo, we stayed in Shibuya, a major ward in Tokyo. While it is known for shopping and nightlife, it is also a great starting point to experience the sheer scale of Tokyo.




Hachiko Statue, Shibuya
A classic example of loyalty, the story of Hachiko is a real tear-jerker. This statue next to the Shibuya station is now a popular meet-up spot for the locals. Please be punctual.

Shibuya Scramble Crossing, Shibuya
As seen in the movies… I wanted to get a better view from up top, but I didn’t spend enough time looking for a decent spot.


Hoshino Coffee, Shibuya
Next to the Shibuya scramble, we grabbed some refreshments to kill time while waiting to check in. The freshly made pancake souffle was a stand out.


Ichiran Ramen, Shibuya
As with many other ramen shops in Japan, you have to first order from a vending machine before sitting down. The difference, though, is that you can’t actually see who is giving you the food. This strictly anti-social affair delivered punchy tonkotsu broth, but the noodles were definitely thinner than what I would have preferred.

Dominique Ansel Bakery, Shibuya
This is the first location for the inventor of the cronut outside of New York. We have always gawked at his instagram pictures but never had the chance to make it out there. Therefore, we were naturally hyped.





Meiji Jingu, Shibuya

While beautiful, we came at a time when none of the seasonal colors were on display. Still, it’s hard to imagine that there is so much peace and quiet in the middle of a bustling city.





Gindaco, Shibuya
A takoyaki chain.


Mocha Cat Cafe, Shibuya
Cats? Check. An elderly couple feeding cats? Check. UV-light-equipped slippers dispenser? I’m all in.


Omotesando Hills, Shibuya
Omotesando Hills is a relatively new shopping complex designed by Tadao Ando. Not to be outdone, the neighborhood and alleyways around Omotesando also have their own charms.



Ivorish, Shibuya
The Japanese is known for taking something foreign and perfecting it. This restaurant is dedicated to french toasts, and it did not disappoint.

Akihabara
Also known as the “Electric City”. If you are not familiar with Japan and its quirks, Akihabara will definitely shock you the most as it is the holy land of video games, electronics, anime/manga paraphernalia and addictive crane games.


Marugo, Akihabara
One of the main goals for this trip was to eat the best (or as close as I can get to the best) tonkatsu. I’m normally not the biggest fan of pork, but I will always make an exception for Marugo. The breading was lightly fried, and while the cutlet was thick, it was also very juicy. As a side note, the rice was also delicious on its own.

Owl No Mori, Akihabara
How do you take the novelty of cat cafes to the next level? Replace the cats with owls. While they were mostly cute, you couldn’t help but to feel intimidated in such a cramped space. Stick to the rules, and you should be fine.




Shinjuku
Another major ward in Tokyo, superficially felt similar to Shibuya.


Omoide Yokocho or Piss Alley, Shinjuku
The restaurants in this alley focus on yakitori. The entrance was tough to spot. We made the mistake of not sitting next to a grill and opting for an empty second floor.



Shinjuku Gyoen, Shinjuku
A large park with plenty of cherry blossoms blooming during Spring. We were lucky to catch them on the last day of our trip. It was great finally seeing this in person after watching the anime feature “Garden of Words”.





Ginza
This district houses many internationally renowned shops and is the place to do all of your luxury shopping.

Itoya, Ginza
This is a must visit for crafts and stationery lovers. Each floor offers something different, and the organization of their products is top-notch.


Sushi Ichi, Ginza
The most money I’ve ever put down for sushi, but I’m guessing that this could be an apt comparison to Jiro’s sushi. Ichi seats a little more than ten, so it is quite an intimate place. The chef behind the counter juggled effortlessly between different courses and served me the best sushi of my life.







Muji Yurakucho, Yurakucho (minutes from Ginza)
This is the mothership of Muji, a retailer of consumer lifestyle goods with a keen focus on design. Apart from having a greater variety of goods than your normal Muji, this one also sells books and houseplants, and has an Ikea-esque dining area to boot.

Toranomon Koffee, Toranomon
This is the successor to the famous Omotesando Koffee shop that closed down late last year. Good coffee and good decor, what more can you ask for?


Tokyo Tower (from the Park Hotel lobby)
There are many high-rise observatories in Tokyo. Luckily, our stay at the Park Hotel gave us a decent look from the lobby area without having to pay admission.

Hope you enjoyed living vicariously through these pictures. There’s two more parts to my trip if you crave more:

Tokyo (you are here)KyotoFuji + Himeji + Osaka

Follow me @kzmeyao
Copyright 2016. Photos taken by Kevin Yao. All rights reserved.



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